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Who is an expert on the Arctic?

By Clive Tesar Academic conferences such as this one are filled with experts. Experts in anthropology, law, sociology, education and several more disciplines. How do we know they’re expert? Because the...

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Turning knowledge to action: International Polar Year

As I write this I’m sitting in the WWF booth here at the International Polar Year Conference in Montreal, Canada. It’s hard to actually get a break to write this in between the stream of people...

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Bringing the Arctic to the desert

Nick Clark and Maurice Roper from Al Jazeera film on the voyage to the Last Ice Area in August 2012. © Clive Tesar / WWF-Canon Through the helicopter’s open door, several kilometers of fractured ice...

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To the ice edge

Houses in Qaanaaq, Greenland. © Clive Tesar / WWF-Canon After the relative lushness of southern Greenland, the first glimpses of the north of the island are shocking. Here about 1400 kilometers from...

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The narwhal hunt

We had just stepped ashore in Qeqertat when the small boat approached the beach, dodging its way in between icebergs. Strapped across its bows was a traditional hunting kayak, with a harpoon and...

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Ancient sandstone, oil futures, and odd sounds from the gearbox

Pointing across the bay, Christian Knudsen, a geologist working for the Danish geological survey, enthuses over the ancient sandstone cliffs. These cliffs, he says, date from Precambrian times....

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The tern on the Tern

Maurice and Bird Yarns tern © Clive Tesar / WWF-Canon Boats tend to accumulate mascots, and this one has more than its share, mostly crafted by crew-member Pascale Otis: at the moment, she’s working on...

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Sailing through Siku

Sea Ice © Clive Tesar / WWF-Canon The storm was steadily eating into our travel plans. The first day at anchor meant we had to ditch plans to call in at Siorapaluk, Greenland’s northernmost community....

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The tube team

The tube team – paul, Clive, Nick Clark, Grant Redvers, Maurice Roper (Valentine Ribadeau-Dumas was also on the team, but took the picture after we got the successful 500 meter sample. © Students on...

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Final thoughts from dry land

The Arctic Tern near shore in Nunavut, Canada. © WWF-Canon   For two nights after I got off the boat, I woke up in the middle of the night to a swaying bed. It took me a while in my sleepy state to...

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